As I stood over the scrambled eggs, cooking slowly over low heat, and adding grated cheese near the end, I thought over the thousand Sunday mornings, sitting at a kitchen table in Annandale, or Ocean City, or Linwood, waiting for the laden platters to hit the table while reading the comics. Every Sunday morning of my childhood, after returning home from Church, my mother cooked breakfast for our family. The combinations varied around sausage, bacon, or ham, around pancakes or French toast, but we always had scrambled eggs, cooked slowly with cheese folded in. At the time, it was almost invariably Velveeta. I use cheddar now. She cooked in a large cast iron skillet that had been seasoned over decades, oftentimes with bacon fat. She left the eggs loose and moist, and it was not until much later that I realized this was not common among my friends. Their parents cooked their eggs to a dried browned crumble and never added cheese.
My mother died this past holiday season on an early Saturday morning. It is such an unsettling feeling that slides across the background of grief at losing your mother. She was the anchor. In speaking with my brother, I told him that I felt homeless, truly homeless, for the first time in my life. I felt un-moored at age 52. Her home was the home that, while I may have left physically many decades ago, never quite let go of.
I suppose we all respond differently at times like this, but I gravitate to the kitchen. As the news was passed around our family earlier that morning, we gathered at my brother's home to talk about what needed to be done next. As supplies trickled in: a box of coffee from Dunkin Donuts, donuts from Dot's Bakery, some muffins, bagels, and bread, I foraged in my brother's kitchen for some stuff to make the breakfast. I found some ham, eggs, leftover steak from the night before, and began to assemble a meal at the stove. While the conversation swirled around the house, and condolences passed from cousins, friends, and in-laws, I stood quietly at the stove stirring eggs, turning bacon, and thinking of Sunday mornings.
I once heard my mom debate the preparation of scrambled eggs with her best friend from childhood. She advocated whipping the eggs until frothy and cooking them slow, unlike Betty, who believed in stirring slowly and cooking quickly. I realized that in this moment, this was my connection to my mom. Platters of breakfast food hit the table again this morning; we mourned her passing; and I realized that she was always only a kitchen away from me.
Food, Friendship, Service
Food binds us to our culture, our heritage, our families and our friends. All my life, I have found pleasure and solace in the kitchen. I have built a career out of being in service through the food that I have offered at home, in restaurants, in hospitals, and to those in need.
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Monday, January 30, 2012
Service
Recently, I have been giving some thought to the concept of
professional service. We have all
received good service and poor service, and typically, we notice only poor
service. Most service is like
McDonald’s: it is consistently mediocre, so we know what to expect, and we
don’t give it much thought. In some
situations, service may be impeccable and correct, but sterile. And in other situations, the service may be
friendly and engaged, but not very sound technically. In both of these cases, we do not walk away
with the “wow” factor.
On rare
occasions, we receive such exceptional service that it becomes almost
indescribable. We reach a state of awe
that only becomes fully realized in retrospect.
We are carried through an evening, or an event, or a weekend, or even
crisis, where every need is met, every desire is fulfilled, or every fear is
assuaged, and yet, we don’t even know how it happens.
What are
the most basic elements of this type of service? If you were to distill it down to the most
essential components, regardless of the situation or environment, regardless of
the venue, what would those be?
I believe
that there are three essential elements: presence, anticipation, and structure,
of which the first two are primary.
Presence refers to the ability to
be fully in the present moment with the person in front of you. This means that regardless of what is
happening around you, physically, mentally, or psychologically, the person in
front of you is the center of the universe.
Everything revolves around them for as long as you are engaged with
them. That person should feel your
complete focus and awareness. You may be
pouring a glass of water, chatting about the weather, resolving an issue,
making a suggestion, or explaining something, but regardless of what it is,
they have your total concentration.
Anticipation is foresight. Foresight to recognize and fulfill a need
before a person knows that they have it.
This takes skill and active projection.
It requires (again) that you remain fully aware and present in your
surroundings, and have a strong sense of the interdependence of things. “Interbeing” is how Thich Nhat Hanh, the
renowned Buddhist monk and teacher, refers to it. Every action, every object, every thought
even, is interrelated. Exceptional service anticipates the need of a guest,
before they ask or even feel that need.
Proper anticipation begins with
planning. Envision the result that you
strive for, and then build the path to get there. Once you have created a path, consider
Murphy’s Law: what could possibly derail your plan? Then modify.
Then plan contingencies. And
then, most importantly envision it all from the perspective of the guest ,
because that is really the only thing that matters. Once a plan is in place, then everything else
depends upon being present, being aware, and responding rather than
reacting. Adjustments will be seamless
and effortless. With exceptional
service, your guest will never sense the effort or the shifting conditions.
I consider the structure to be the
supporting component of service. It is
the procedures and the actions, which provide the framework to achieve presence
and anticipation. Structure can vary to
the situation, but the mechanisms, whether they be the policies and procedures,
or the physical arrangement, or the protocols for behavior, dress, and action,
should be designed to foster the desired results, and only the desired
results.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
The Kitchen Table
This was a period of time during my
childhood when there were always some pieces of furniture, in various stages of
refurbishing, strewn around the floor of the den. I do not know what drove my mother to embark
on these projects, nor do I want to venture to speculate, but she was
meticulous, methodical, and determined as she stripped, sanded, oiled and rubbed
these pieces into submission. My mother
deconstructed, and then reconstructed, wooden discards into refined elemental
beautiful furniture.
One of the pieces that she restored
was a Cushman Colonial Drop Leaf Maple Kitchen table, circa. 1950. I know that now, because I researched it
until I found the table that matched my memory.
But as a young boy and into my teens, I only knew that it was our
kitchen table, the hub of my childhood and the center of the known
universe.
It was stripped down to its purest
element, even beneath the scuffed aging techniques that Cushman was known for,
and that was solid maple wood, unstained and lightly oiled. I knew that table intimately, and the grain
and touch of that wood is still fresh some thirty-five years later.
Although on most nights, we ate in
the dining room, most everything else gravitated to the kitchen. This is where all other meals were eaten, and
on those (somewhat) rare occasions when I was in a battle of wills over peas
with my mother, this is where my plate and my butt were moved to wage the war
of attrition. This is where Sunday
breakfast occurred each week, after Mass and a trip to Dot’s or the Pastry
Pantry Bakery for jelly donuts or sticky buns.
The leaves were raised and a bounty of bacon, ham, cheesy scrambled
eggs, and pancakes would slowly fill the table, while we sipped orange juice
and read the comics.
This is where the day actually
began and ended. You were not actually
present and accounted for until you showed up at the table for breakfast,
particularly in a large family. And
typically the night ended at the table over a snack or a book. The kitchen table was the sidelines from
playing outside to rest and catch a drink of water. It was the homework and project table; the
table for bill paying, and war counsel room.
It was where real conversations happened, not the formal dining ones or
the distracted TV room conversations, but the ones where relationships
deepened. It was where crisis were met
and averted, where the ebb and flow, the flotsam and jetsam of our daily lives
floated in and out with the current. Friends
dropped in to sit at the table and chat for a while. It was the thinking place; the safe haven
with milk and cookies. Oreo cookies were
split and licked to high art at the kitchen table. It was a place to wrap cool fingers around
hot chocolate, and a dull mind around sharp coffee.
A couple friends of mine talked
about the kitchen table as the place where justice was meted out. One talked
about his father sitting on a high stool at the head of the table, looking down
at you, as from a judicial bench, and delivering his judgments. Sometimes, if you were too late getting home,
that is where you would find mom, preferably, or dad waiting up.
My stepfather, a taciturn man of
Italian heritage and old world values, still judges a man’s character by the
kitchen table rules. He once remarked
about one of my sister’s boyfriends, ‘He never eats here’, and that was not a
good thing.
As I grew older, I found myself gravitating to the kitchen
wherever I went. Coming in the back door
to the kitchen was the preferred entrance when I stopped by friends' homes,
and even professionally through the many years I spent selling beer and wine to
restaurants. I always felt more at ease in the kitchen during parties, dinners,
and gatherings. There, I could just do
my thing, instead of force out small talk.
I cooked, and listened. I felt my
way through evenings tactilely, a light touch on the food at all times, an
anchor that grounded and steadied my mind.
At the end of the movie, “The Big
Night”, a wonderful story about family, food and perfection, two brothers share
a plate of eggs. Not a word is spoken;
there is only the act of cooking, the serving up of a simple plate of food, and
the congregation of two brothers.
I sometimes wonder why I really
chose to stay in food service. For many
years, I thought I just fell into it.
Maybe I did, but not in the way that thought. I fell into what felt most at home to me: the
rhythm and smells, the background noise of conversation and cast iron skillets,
and the sense that no matter what happened elsewhere, this would always be
here. My friends and my family would
always come to sit at the kitchen table and share food, and themselves, with
me.
Please tell me about your kitchen
table. I like to hear from you.
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Fight for the positive.
I’m a negative guy. After almost a decade playing in the dining
rooms of fine restaurants, training myself to look for small flaws - a fork
that is not exactly one inch from the table edge, a drip on the edge of a plate
coming out of the kitchen, a table corner that is slightly off ninety degrees,
a water glass half full – I realized that I had trained myself to be a negative
guy.
I like to think that I am not
unpleasant when I go out to dinner with friends, or partaking of home-cooked meals. But it leaks
out. Every few years, my siblings and I
gather around our mom somewhere for a reunion.
On one of these trips, I spent an afternoon making dinner. From all outward appearances it was probably
fine (actually it was probably very good; not like the failed carrot soup from
an earlier reunion). However, it didn’t
quite hit the mark that I was aiming for, and as I began my deconstruction of
it, my brother said to me, 'are you ever happy with anything that you cook?'
Of course in the moment, I
explained all of the reasons and defended all of my compulsions. But later… it hit me harder than I would have
liked.
Recently as I met with a client, he
was finishing up writing thank you notes to various employees from around the
hospital. As it turns out, each Friday
he writes short notes to a handful of employees whose names have been passed
along to him from his directors, and mails them to their homes. He told me about one note. A woman from the housekeeping department had
approached him in the hall to thank him for it.
She had worked for the hospital for almost eighteen years. She had a teenage son. When she opened the card at home, she said,
it was the first time that she could remember her son ever looking at her with
pride for the work that she did at the hospital.
It is a small gesture, to recognize
something positive. You just never know
what the real impact of that small gesture is.
I pay attention to details. I am a horizon scanner. I anticipate issues. This tendency makes me very good at some
things. It makes me a good operator. It
makes me a capable consultant. However,
it does not make me a great manager of people.
It makes me difficult to work for.
So now, I write thank you
notes. And, I fight for the positives.
Stop dieting and buy this book: Eating Well for Optimum Health
“Eat food. Not too much.
Mostly plants.” – Michael Pollan
At the very beginning of the
introduction to In Defense of Food, the follow up ‘eater’s manifesto’ to
The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan provides a short, concise
instruction for a healthy diet. In 2000,
Andrew Weil published a much longer and more detailed prescription for a
healthy diet called, Eating Well for Optimum Health.
If you
recall, Dr. Weil came onto the scene with a best selling nonfiction called Eight
Weeks to Optimum Health. It ran at
the top of the NY Times bestseller list for several weeks, and focused our
attention on the potential benefits of an integrated approach to health. He followed up with Eating Well, the
most comprehensive and lucid book about diet and health that I have come
across.
Andrew Weil
takes a very methodical and articulate approach to food and nutrition,
beginning with a breakdown of the macro- and micronutrients, of each component of
our diet, and then finishing by constructing the outline of an optimum
diet. I have used this book as a
resource for many years now, in constructing menus within hospitals, in
deciding how to fuel my own attempts to prepare for marathons and triathlons,
and in teaching health and wellness in a public forum.
Unfortunately,
I discovered recently that this book has fallen from the public eye, and
hardcover print versions are becoming more and more scarce. Before this book disappears altogether, I
want to strongly suggest that you go out and find it, and make sure that it is
on your shelf, alongside your diet books, your cookbooks, your self-help books and
your fitness books. It is an
indispensable book, if you are serious about a long-term diet.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
A Loyal Guest and Friend
Almost every day for the past four or five years. Dean
Lehmitz came into our café at Jordan
Valley Medical
Center for lunch. Sometimes he came in twice, once for coffee
and then again for lunch. Most days, he
brought along his buddy Ray. Once when I
was working on a Saturday, Dean came in dressed in his funeral suit, and it was
the first and only time I ever met his wife.
A friend had died, and he had come by for coffee and a little dessert
after the services.
Dean was a retired
farmer from West Jordan . I did not know much more than that, other
than that he had served in the Pacific during World War II. He was ‘an ornery cuss’, my cashier, Elaine,
used to say, but meant it in the kindest way.
He would come up to the line and step back with the line cooks to get a
closer look at the food, and ask for extra potatoes, another roll, or more
gravy. The thing was, Dean treated us
and our café like a real ‘joint’ as we called them back east, where I grew
up. You know, the kind of neighborhood
diner, where you went so often, it was hard to tell who the patron was and who
the owner was, because they didn’t act much different, where everyone knew your
name, like in Cheers, and just accepted you, warts and all. It was the highest compliment, coming from a
guy like Dean.
And he brought Ray along with him, and occasionally another
old codger. He even stepped into line
for our free employee BBQ’s throughout the summer, and our holiday meals during
December. He used to tell me that I did
a good job when I was director there, and that we had the best deal in town,
and the best food. He told my
replacement that too. And I believed
him, because he made me feel like I was doing the right things. Really though, it was our grill cooks, Steve
and Armando, and our cashiers, Elaine and Renee, and Dana, our sous chef, and the rest of the crew, that were doing the
right things. It wasn’t really about
service, or maybe it was. It was about
making someone feel welcome, feel at home, like they belonged there. That was what our staff did, every day, and
that made all the difference.
We used to talk about what it meant to work in the hospital
in the café. Coming from restaurants,
from ski resorts, and golf courses, like I did, it was easy to show people a
good time during meals. They were
already having a good time, all you had to do was avoid screwing it up for
them. But in the hospital, you never
knew what the folks were going through, who came through your doors. It could be the best of times, like a newborn
baby, or something much different, like a sleepless night in the ICU, a vigil
over a loved one. The ten minutes or half
an hour that you saw someone might be the only break they got from a hospital
bedside the whole day, and good or bad, the only moment to take a deep
breath. Our job was about much more than
serving food; it was about being present and knowing that you had an
opportunity to make a difference in someone’s day, if you simply paid attention
to what they needed most from you. It
wasn’t always about the French Fries. I
like to think that is what Dean recognized when he came in every day for
lunch.
This year Dean did not make it to our holiday meal for the
prime rib. I read his obituary just the
week before, and learned that he had earned a Purple Heart and a Bronze Star
during World War II, farmed with his brothers, and worked at the copper mine, that his wife’s
name was Evelyn, and that he had
children, and grandchildren, and had lived his whole life in that part of the
valley.
Thanks Dean for your patronage. We will miss you.
Visioning: What are your Top 3?
In The Accidental Creative,
Todd Henry talks about ‘your top three’.
‘What are your top three priorities right now?’ he asks. In his context, this refers to alignment:
alignment with your employee or alignment with your boss (or client). It is a way to clarify what you are, or
should be, working on, and it is a way to clarify expectations so that we are
all on the same page.
More importantly, however, is the
visioning aspect of this. What are your
Top 3, in terms of where you want to go.
What is your vision for your business, your profession, or your
life? How do you align your actions with
that vision? Do you spend time each day,
each month and each year creating a vision for yourself or your business? Do you invest energy into exploring what or
where you want to be at the end of the day? Or year? Or lifetime?
When I was a child, each Sunday
after church, my father would drive us all around in the car before heading
home. It was difficult. There were five of us children crammed into
the back seats of the family wagon, after being crammed into a pew for the past
hour, driving around in a seemingly aimless tour of the better neighborhoods
where we lived. We would drive through
the hoity toity areas, while my father pointed out big houses and nice
lawns. For years afterward, we siblings
joked about these Sunday drives. It did
not make sense to me as a five-, or eight-, or ten -year old boy, but this was
how my father motivated himself to achieve a better life. This was his visioning process.
I was recently involved in a
decision to terminate a manager in our company.
It was a difficult, painful decision that I resisted for a long
time. We had worked together for almost
seven years. This manager was a hard worker. He lived cleanly and had integrity. I enjoyed his company and his family. We mountain biked and golfed together.
But when we talked about his vision
for his account, when we talked about his top three, he could not articulate
it. He was unable to look down the road
and envision something better for his business in a creative or entrepreneurial
sense. It made him appear disengaged and
aloof. And that is how our client
perceived him.
It also made his decisions and
actions appear random and without foundation.
He worked through his day and through his projects without a clear goal
or objective fixed in his mind. He could
not ‘see’ where he was going, because he did not invest time into envisioning
it. And not only could he not articulate
it to me or our client, he did not articulate it to his staff, and so they too
could not see what the objective was.
They felt out of the loop and disconnected, and it impacted their work
as well.
Invest in this portion of your work
and your life. Invest time in the
visioning process. Whether it is driving
around the rich neighborhoods or touring the sites of your toughest
competitors or gleaning ideas from magazines and trade publications or simply
sitting quietly and asking the question – what do I want? For my work or for my
life.
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